What's onThis week in Edinburgh
Edinburgh, from the castle rock to the sea
Edinburgh is two cities in one view: the medieval Old Town strung along its ridge from the castle to Holyroodhouse, and the Georgian New Town laid out below it, a World Heritage Site together. Here are the grand hotels and the 2026 MICHELIN stars, the castle, the galleries and the festivals, the Old Town, the New Town, Stockbridge, the West End, Leith, the Southside, Bruntsfield and Portobello, and day trips to East Lothian, Glasgow, Stirling, St Andrews, the Borders and the Highlands. We’ve checked every listing against the venue’s own website or an official source, and we leave out anything we can’t confirm.
In depth
A city of two towns
The medieval Old Town on its ridge and the Georgian New Town below it, one World Heritage Site: how to read Edinburgh.
Read the storyEdinburgh by area
From the Royal Mile to the sea, each part of Edinburgh has its own guide: the Old Town on its ridge, the Georgian New Town, Stockbridge and Dean Village, the theatres of the West End, Leith’s quayside, the Southside and the Meadows, Bruntsfield and Morningside, and Portobello’s beach.
On foot
Edinburgh is a walking city: the Old Town and the New Town are a few minutes apart across the gardens, and the tram runs on down Leith Walk to the sea.
Plan your trip
The practical things to know before you go: the UK ETA and the city’s visitor levy, the tram from the airport, and itineraries from one day in the Old Town to a Platinum weekend.
Our advice
Be at the castle for one o’clock
Book a timed ticket for Edinburgh Castle and be on the walls at one o’clock, when the One o’Clock Gun fires; then walk down the Royal Mile to Holyrood. Edinburgh Castle
Beyond Edinburgh
East Lothian’s beaches, Glasgow’s museums, Stirling’s castle, the links of St Andrews, Scott’s Borders and the Highlands, all within reach of Waverley.
Beyond EdinburghThe HighlandsPerthshire, Glencoe and the CairngormsOur advice
Climb Calton Hill at dusk
Ten minutes from Princes Street, Calton Hill shows you the whole city as the lights come on: the castle, the Old Town ridge, the New Town and the Firth of Forth. Calton Hill
Edinburgh in depth: the stories behind the city
The two towns, the festival city, eating from Leith to Stockbridge, the grand hotels, the trams and trains, and how buying works in Scotland: the stories behind the city.
In season
Come in August for the festivals, or at New Year for Hogmanay: and book early for both, when the city fills.
Across Britain with the ULTIMATE guides
Across Britain with the ULTIMATE guides: London and Brighton to the south, the great train journeys and the ships that call at Leith.
ULTIMATE City Guides: Europe & beyond
Planning a longer journey? Each city in the network has its own independent guide, written with the same care and checked place by place. Here are the guides that are live, with more on the way.
Europe
See all Europe
SerbiaULTIMATE BelgradeWhere the Sava meets the Danube: a buzzing capital of art, classical music and famous nightlife, with a new waterfront and the mountains of Zlatibor and Kopaonik.Visit the guide North America
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See all CaribbeanAsia & Indian Ocean
See all Asia & Indian OceanHOT TOPICS · Have Your Say
What readers are saying: festival tips, whisky bars, Leith’s tables and the walks up Arthur’s Seat.
This week's pick
Edinburgh Castle
Book a timed ticket for Edinburgh Castle and arrive before one o’clock: the One o’Clock Gun fires from the castle walls, and the Honours of Scotland wait inside.
Find out moreEvery list in the guide
- Restaurants49
- Cafés10
- Bars15
- Hotels20
- Sights24
- Arts & Culture40
- Parks8
- Walks8
- Shopping15
- Health10
- Property11
- Developments6
- Cars7
- Getting Around13
- Old Town & the Royal Mile guideGuide
- The New Town guideGuide
- Stockbridge & Dean Village guideGuide
- West End & Haymarket guideGuide
- Leith & the Shore guideGuide
- Southside & the Meadows guideGuide
- Bruntsfield & Morningside guideGuide
- Portobello guideGuide
- East Lothian & North Berwick guideGuide
- Glasgow guideGuide
- Stirling & the Trossachs guideGuide
- St Andrews & Fife guideGuide
- The Scottish Borders guideGuide
- The Highlands guideGuide
- LUX Living guideGuide
- Edinburgh property guide guideGuide
- Grand hotels guide guideGuide
Plan your day
Know your neighbourhoods
Our favourites right now
Restaurants
- 1Eating in Edinburgh, from Leith’s quayside to the Old TownEdinburgh · In depth
- 2The KitchinLeith · Modern Cuisine
- 3Restaurant Martin WishartLeith · Modern Cuisine
Cafés
- 1Palm Court at The BalmoralNew Town · Afternoon tea
- 2The Colonnades at the Signet LibraryOld Town · Afternoon tea
- 3Fortitude CoffeeNew Town · Coffee
Bars
See all 15Hotels
- 1Edinburgh’s grand hotels, from the Balmoral clock to the WitcheryEdinburgh · In depth
- 2The BalmoralNew Town · Grand hotel
- 3Gleneagles TownhouseNew Town · Grand hotel
Sights
- 1Edinburgh, a city of two townsEdinburgh · In depth
- 2Edinburgh CastleOld Town · Castle
- 3Palace of HolyroodhouseOld Town · Royal palace
Arts & Culture
- 1Edinburgh, the festival cityEdinburgh · In depth
- 2Scottish National GalleryNew Town · Gallery
- 3Scottish National Portrait GalleryNew Town · Gallery
Parks
- 1Royal Botanic Garden EdinburghStockbridge · Botanic garden
- 2Princes Street GardensNew Town · Gardens
- 3The MeadowsSouthside · Park
Walks
- 1The Royal Mile: castle to palaceOld Town · Walk
- 2Victoria Street and the GrassmarketOld Town · Walk
- 3The Water of Leith: Dean Village to StockbridgeStockbridge · Walk
Shopping
- 1Harvey Nichols EdinburghNew Town · Department store
- 2Multrees WalkNew Town · Luxury street
- 3Westfield St James QuarterNew Town · Shopping centre
Health
- 1Emergencies: call 999Edinburgh · Emergency
- 2Royal Infirmary of EdinburghLittle France · Hospital
- 3Royal Hospital for Children and Young PeopleLittle France · Hospital
Property
- 1Buying in Edinburgh: Home Reports, closing dates and missivesEdinburgh · In depth
- 2The Scottish buying process (mygov.scot)Edinburgh · Official guide
- 3Land and Buildings Transaction TaxEdinburgh · Tax
Developments
- 1Westfield St James QuarterNew Town · Development
- 2Trams to NewhavenLeith · Development
- 3Dunard CentreNew Town · Development