Edinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street Gardens Edinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street Gardens Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town seen from Calton Hill, with the Pentland Hills beyond Dean Village on the Water of Leith The monuments of Calton Hill

The city guide to Edinburgh, Scotland

Best of Edinburgh

A castle on a volcano, a medieval Old Town and a Georgian New Town, seven MICHELIN stars from Leith to Stockbridge, the world’s great August festivals and the Highlands within a morning’s drive: Edinburgh, checked place by place.

Launch edition · Autumn 2026

The red carriages of the Glacier Express crossing the stone arches of the Landwasser Viaduct below a snow-capped peakSister guideULTIMATE Rail JourneysThe story of the train, the great journeys and where to book themA cruise ship in the Bay of Kotor, MontenegroSister guideULTIMATE CruisesLines, ships and itineraries, from river to expeditionThe Matterhorn in winter above ZermattSister guideULTIMATE Ski ResortsSeason dates, hotels, après and ski schools, resort by resort
The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and its gardens, Saint-Jean-Cap-FerratSister guideULTIMATE PropertyHome Reports, closing dates and the neighbourhoods

Edinburgh, from the castle rock to the sea

Edinburgh is two cities in one view: the medieval Old Town strung along its ridge from the castle to Holyroodhouse, and the Georgian New Town laid out below it, a World Heritage Site together. Here are the grand hotels and the 2026 MICHELIN stars, the castle, the galleries and the festivals, the Old Town, the New Town, Stockbridge, the West End, Leith, the Southside, Bruntsfield and Portobello, and day trips to East Lothian, Glasgow, Stirling, St Andrews, the Borders and the Highlands. We’ve checked every listing against the venue’s own website or an official source, and we leave out anything we can’t confirm.

Edinburgh, a city of two towns

In depth

A city of two towns

Edinburgh·In depth

The medieval Old Town on its ridge and the Georgian New Town below it, one World Heritage Site: how to read Edinburgh.

Read the story

Edinburgh by area

From the Royal Mile to the sea, each part of Edinburgh has its own guide: the Old Town on its ridge, the Georgian New Town, Stockbridge and Dean Village, the theatres of the West End, Leith’s quayside, the Southside and the Meadows, Bruntsfield and Morningside, and Portobello’s beach.

The Royal Mile in the Old TownArea guideOld Town & the Royal MileCastle to palaceCharlotte Square in the New Town, with its statue and Georgian terracesArea guideThe New TownGeorgian EdinburghDean Village on the Water of LeithArea guideStockbridge & Dean VillageThe village in the cityThe Usher Hall on Lothian RoadArea guideWest End & HaymarketTheatres and terracesThe Shore at Leith at dusk, reflected in the Water of LeithArea guideLeith & the ShoreThe portCherry blossom along a path in the MeadowsArea guideSouthside & the MeadowsUniversity and green space

On foot

Edinburgh is a walking city: the Old Town and the New Town are a few minutes apart across the gardens, and the tram runs on down Leith Walk to the sea.

Bruntsfield Links on a summer evening, with Arthur’s Seat on the skylineArea guideBruntsfield & MorningsideThe Links and the villasEdinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street GardensArea guidePortobelloEdinburgh by the sea

Plan your trip

The practical things to know before you go: the UK ETA and the city’s visitor levy, the tram from the airport, and itineraries from one day in the Old Town to a Platinum weekend.

The Royal Mile in the Old TownBefore you goEdinburgh essentialsEntry, the visitor levy, money and emergenciesAn Edinburgh tram on Princes StreetGetting aroundBy tram, bus and trainThe airport tram to the SleeperEdinburgh Castle on Castle Rock above the rooftops of the cityItineraryThe Old Town in a dayCastle to palaceThe Balmoral hotel and its clock tower at the east end of Princes StreetLuxury guideLUX LivingThe finest addressesThe Balmoral hotel and its clock tower at the east end of Princes StreetItineraryThe Gold weekendThe Balmoral and LeithEdinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street GardensItineraryThe Platinum weekendThe Witchery and Prestonfield

Our advice

Be at the castle for one o’clock

Book a timed ticket for Edinburgh Castle and be on the walls at one o’clock, when the One o’Clock Gun fires; then walk down the Royal Mile to Holyrood. Edinburgh Castle

Beyond Edinburgh

East Lothian’s beaches, Glasgow’s museums, Stirling’s castle, the links of St Andrews, Scott’s Borders and the Highlands, all within reach of Waverley.

The Bass Rock and its lighthouse in the Firth of ForthBeyond EdinburghEast Lothian & North BerwickBeaches and the Bass RockThe central hall of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and MuseumBeyond EdinburghGlasgowThe great Victorian cityStirling Castle on its rockBeyond EdinburghStirling & the TrossachsCastle and lochsThe ruins of St Andrews CathedralBeyond EdinburghSt Andrews & FifeGolf and fishing villagesSir Walter Scott’s library at AbbotsfordBeyond EdinburghThe Scottish BordersScott’s countryBuachaille Etive Mòr at the head of Glen Coe in winterBeyond EdinburghThe HighlandsPerthshire, Glencoe and the Cairngorms

Our advice

Climb Calton Hill at dusk

Ten minutes from Princes Street, Calton Hill shows you the whole city as the lights come on: the castle, the Old Town ridge, the New Town and the Firth of Forth. Calton Hill

Edinburgh in depth: the stories behind the city

The two towns, the festival city, eating from Leith to Stockbridge, the grand hotels, the trams and trains, and how buying works in Scotland: the stories behind the city.

The Big Wheel and an illuminated Edinburgh sign in Princes Street Gardens at ChristmasChristmas & HogmanayChristmas in EdinburghThe Big Wheel, the ice and HogmanayEdinburgh Castle and the Old Town seen from Calton Hill, with the Pentland Hills beyondFeatureEdinburgh, the classic and the newCastle, closes, crescents and the new waterfrontThe monuments of Calton HillThe back storyA city of two townsThe Old Town and the NewThe Usher Hall on Lothian RoadThe back storyThe festival cityAugust and HogmanayThe Shore at Leith at dusk, reflected in the Water of LeithThe back storyEating in EdinburghFrom Leith to StockbridgeThe Balmoral hotel and its clock tower at the east end of Princes StreetThe back storyThe grand hotelsFrom the Balmoral to the Witchery

In season

Come in August for the festivals, or at New Year for Hogmanay: and book early for both, when the city fills.

Edinburgh Waverley and the Balmoral, with Calton Hill beyondThe back storyBy tram, bus and trainThe tram to the SleeperEdinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street GardensThe back storyBuying in EdinburghThe Scottish wayEdinburgh Castle on Castle Rock above the rooftops of the cityFun factsEdinburgh fun factsThings you might not know

Across Britain with the ULTIMATE guides

Across Britain with the ULTIMATE guides: London and Brighton to the south, the great train journeys and the ships that call at Leith.

Edinburgh Waverley and the Balmoral, with Calton Hill beyondULTIMATE LondonLondonFour hours south by trainEdinburgh Castle on its rock above the trees of West Princes Street GardensULTIMATE BrightonBrightonThe South CoastA train crossing the Forth Bridge, with the Forth Road Bridge and the Queensferry Crossing beyondULTIMATE Rail JourneysRail JourneysThe great train journeysOn board the Royal Yacht BritanniaULTIMATE CruisesCruisesShips that call at Leith

ULTIMATE City Guides: Europe & beyond

Planning a longer journey? Each city in the network has its own independent guide, written with the same care and checked place by place. Here are the guides that are live, with more on the way.

Canal houses and bridges in Amsterdamthe NetherlandsULTIMATE AmsterdamThe canal ring, the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, canal-house hotels, twenty MICHELIN-starred tables, brown cafés, and day trips to Haarlem and Keukenhof.Visit the guide The Alhambra in Granada in the evening lightSpainULTIMATE AndalusiaSeville, Granada and the Alhambra, Córdoba, Málaga, Cádiz and Jerez, Ronda and the white villages, Doñana and Cabo de Gata.Visit the guide The floodlit Acropolis and Parthenon at dusk, seen from Philopappos HillGreeceULTIMATE AthensThe Acropolis and the Plaka, rooftop bars facing the Parthenon, the Athens Riviera and the Greek islands: our original guide, and our deepest.Visit the guide The road winding out to the lighthouse on Cap de Formentor, Mallorca, above the open seaSpainULTIMATE Balearic IslandsMallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera side by side, and how to hop between them by ferry.Visit the guide The Sagrada Família lit up at nightSpainULTIMATE BarcelonaGaudí and the Sagrada Família, the Gothic Quarter, four Three-Star MICHELIN kitchens, the beaches and day trips to Montserrat and Girona.Visit the guide Belgrade's old town and the spire of the Cathedral Church of St Michael above the Sava at sunsetSerbiaULTIMATE BelgradeWhere the Sava meets the Danube: a buzzing capital of art, classical music and famous nightlife, with a new waterfront and the mountains of Zlatibor and Kopaonik.Visit the guide The Brandenburg Gate in Berlin against a blue skyGermanyULTIMATE BerlinThe Brandenburg Gate and Museum Island, the Philharmonie and three opera houses, the story of the Wall, and day trips to Potsdam and Dresden.Visit the guide The Royal Pavilion in Brighton under a blue skyEnglandULTIMATE BrightonThe Royal Pavilion and the piers, the Lanes and the North Laine, Kemptown and Pride, and the South Downs on the doorstep.Visit the guide The Romanian Athenaeum in its gardenRomaniaULTIMATE BucharestBelle Époque palaces, concerts at the Athenaeum, a buzzing food and coffee scene, and the castles and mountains of the Carpathians.Visit the guide The Hungarian Parliament lit up at night on the DanubeHungaryULTIMATE BudapestThermal baths, grand coffee houses, ruin bars and MICHELIN-starred dining on both banks of the Danube, with day trips to the Danube Bend and Lake Balaton.Visit the guide Nyhavn, CopenhagenDenmarkULTIMATE CopenhagenNyhavn and Tivoli, Rosenborg and Amalienborg, smørrebrød at lunch, Geranium and Kadeau’s three stars, Danish design and the harbour baths.Visit the guide A cruise ship in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegroships & regions)ULTIMATE Cruises (linesThe world’s cruise lines for every budget, from family resort ships to yachts, expedition ships and river boats, with the cruising regions port by port.Visit the guide Aerial view of the white sand spit of Ses Illetes and Llevant, the salt pans and, across the strait, Ibiza and Es VedràSpainULTIMATE FormenteraThe white sands of Ses Illetes, the lighthouses of La Mola and Barbaria, the craft markets and an island made for bikes.Visit the guide The Baie des Anges, NiceFranceULTIMATE French RivieraNice, Cannes, Antibes, Cap Ferrat, Èze, Menton, Saint-Tropez and Cassis: palace hotels, three-star tables, beach clubs, the Festival de Cannes and the painters’ coast.Visit the guide Blue domes of Oia above the Santorini calderaGreeceULTIMATE Greek IslandsIsland hopping made easy: Mykonos, Santorini, Paros, Naxos, Milos and the Cyclades, plus Crete, Rhodes and Corfu, with ferries, beaches, hotels and tavernas.Visit the guide Helsinki Cathedral above the South HarbourFinlandULTIMATE HelsinkiSuomenlinna and the South Harbour, saunas by the sea, Aalto and the Design District, two-starred Palace and day trips to Porvoo and Tallinn.Visit the guide The walls of Dalt Vila and the cathedral above the harbour of Ibiza Town, in late sunSpainULTIMATE IbizaDalt Vila’s UNESCO walls, Es Vedrà, three MICHELIN-starred kitchens, the beach clubs and the quiet north, 30 minutes from Formentera.Visit the guide Hagia Sophia and its minarets in golden evening lightTurkeyULTIMATE IstanbulTwo continents, one city: Hagia Sophia and the bazaars, Bosphorus ferries, meyhanes and rooftop bars, Sinan’s hammams and the car-free Princes’ Islands.Visit the guide Varenna on Lake ComoItalyULTIMATE Lake ComoVilla d’Este and the Villa del Balbianello, Bellagio and Varenna, the gardens of the villas, Riva boats and the four MICHELIN stars of the lake.Visit the guide Congress Square, Ljubljana, with the castle on its hill behindSloveniaULTIMATE LjubljanaSlovenia’s green, car-free capital of river cafés and Plečnik’s bridges, an hour from Lake Bled, the Julian Alps, the caves and the Adriatic.Visit the guide The Palace of Westminster and the Elizabeth Tower lit at dusk across the ThamesUnited KingdomULTIMATE LondonRoyal palaces and the Thames, great museums, West End theatre, grand hotels, and the restaurants and bars of Soho, Mayfair and the City.Visit the guide The Metrópolis building at the start of the Gran VíaSpainULTIMATE MadridThe Prado and El Retiro, the Royal Palace, DiverXO’s three stars and cocido since 1870, with day trips to Toledo and Segovia.Visit the guide La Seu, Palma’s Gothic cathedral, and the Almudaina above the old sea wall, seen from the Parc de la MarSpainULTIMATE MallorcaPalma’s cathedral and palace hotels, the UNESCO Tramuntana, Deià and Sóller, nine MICHELIN-starred kitchens, and Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera.Visit the guide Valletta’s honey-coloured skyline, with the dome of the Carmelite church and the spire of St Paul’s, above the harbour at sunsetGozo & CominoULTIMATE MaltaValletta’s knights’ city, temples older than the pyramids, Caravaggio, seven MICHELIN-starred kitchens and the Blue Lagoon.Visit the guide Yachts in Puerto BanúsSpainULTIMATE MarbellaWhitewashed lanes and orange trees in the Old Town, the yachts of Puerto Banús, beach clubs on the Golden Mile and day trips to Ronda and Gibraltar.Visit the guide Turquoise water below the pine-topped cliffs at Cala Macarella, MenorcaSpainULTIMATE MenorcaA UNESCO Biosphere Reserve: the coves of Macarella and Turqueta, World Heritage Talayotic sites, Ciutadella and Maó’s great harbour.Visit the guide The Duomo di Milano and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II on the Piazza del DuomoItalyULTIMATE MilanThe Duomo and the Last Supper, La Scala and Brera, the Quadrilatero della Moda, Bartolini’s three stars, and day trips to Lake Como.Visit the guide Monaco from above, Port Hercule and Monte-Carlo below the mountainsOur sister guideULTIMATE MonacoThe Casino and Monte-Carlo’s palace hotels, the Prince’s Palace on the Rock, superyachts in Port Hercule, Larvotto’s beach clubs and the Grand Prix streets.Visit the guide The Oslo Opera HouseNorwayULTIMATE OsloThe Opera House you can walk on, MUNCH and Vigeland, the polar ships of Bygdøy, Holmenkollen and Maaemo’s three MICHELIN stars.Visit the guide The Eiffel Tower seen from the Trocadéro in ParisFranceULTIMATE ParisThe Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, Notre-Dame reopened, the palace hotels, nine three-star tables, the bouillons, and day trips to Versailles and Giverny.Visit the guide The Millennium Bridge over the MoračaMontenegroULTIMATE PodgoricaMontenegro’s relaxed capital of rivers and café terraces, and the gateway to the Bay of Kotor, Lake Skadar, Cetinje and the mountains.Visit the guide Prague Castle and Charles BridgeCzechiaULTIMATE PraguePrague Castle and Charles Bridge, the Old Town and Malá Strana, Mozart, Dvořák and the opera, the Christmas markets and the five MICHELIN stars of 2026.Visit the guide The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and its gardens, Saint-Jean-Cap-FerratOur sister guideULTIMATE Property (prime markets worldwide)Prime neighbourhoods, estate agents, new developments and how buying works, market by market across the ULTIMATE network.Visit the guide The red carriages of the Glacier Express crossing the stone arches of the Landwasser Viaduct below a snow-capped peakOur sister guideULTIMATE Rail Journeys (great train journeys worldwide)The story of the train, the great rail journeys of the world and where to book them, from the Orient Express to the Glacier Express.Visit the guide The Church of St John at Kaneo above Lake Ohrid, North MacedoniaOur sister guideULTIMATE Regions (editor’s letters & regional guides)Editor’s letters and the food, markets, nature and seasons each region shares, starting with the Balkans.Visit the guide Reykjavík and Mount Esja from HallgrímskirkjaIcelandULTIMATE ReykjavíkHallgrímskirkja and Harpa, the geothermal pools and Sky Lagoon, whales and the northern lights, and the Golden Circle a morning away.Visit the guide St Peter’s Basilica in Rome under a clear blue skyItalyULTIMATE RomeThe Colosseum and the Vatican, the grand hotels above the Spanish Steps, La Pergola’s three stars, the trattorias, and day trips to Tivoli and Pompeii.Visit the guide The Sebilj fountain and the square of BaščaršijaBosnia & HerzegovinaULTIMATE SarajevoWhere East meets West at a line in the pavement: an Ottoman bazaar, Habsburg boulevards, Bosnian coffee and the 1984 Olympic mountains, with Mostar two hours away.Visit the guide The Matterhorn in winter above ZermattOur sister guideULTIMATE Ski Resorts (Europe & North America)Ski resorts in Europe and North America, country by country, for every budget: season dates, hotels, mountain restaurants, après, ski schools and getting there.Visit the guide The Warrior on a Horse fountain in Macedonia Square, Skopje, lit at nightNorth MacedoniaULTIMATE SkopjeA 15th-century stone bridge between a 21st-century square and an Ottoman bazaar, Kenzo Tange’s concrete city, Matka Canyon, and Lake Ohrid three hours away.Visit the guide The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Sofia, under a pink evening skyBulgariaULTIMATE SofiaRoman streets beneath the city, golden domes, warm mineral springs and a mountain at the end of the main boulevard.Visit the guide Gamla Stan, StockholmSwedenULTIMATE StockholmGamla Stan and the Royal Palace, the Vasa and Skansen, Frantzén’s three stars, fika and the archipelago of 30,000 islands.Visit the guide The restored Pyramid of Tirana under a blue skyAlbaniaULTIMATE TiranaAn Ottoman mosque painted with waterfalls, museums in bunkers, Blloku’s cafés and the Dajti cable car, with Berat, Gjirokastër, the Alps and the Riviera within reach.Visit the guide Rolling green hills and a farmhouse near Pienza in the Val d’OrciaItalyULTIMATE TuscanyFlorence, Chianti, Siena, the Val d’Orcia, Pisa and Lucca, Versilia, Bolgheri, the Maremma, Arezzo and Elba.Visit the guide Calatrava’s Hemisfèric lit at twilight, reflected in its poolSpainULTIMATE ValenciaCalatrava’s City of Arts and Sciences, the Gothic Lonja, paella by the sea, Las Fallas and the nine-kilometre Turia Garden.Visit the guide The Grand Canal and Santa Maria della Salute, VeniceItalyULTIMATE VeniceThe Grand Canal and St Mark’s, palace hotels, Two MICHELIN Stars at Glam, the bacari, the Biennale, and Murano, Burano and Torcello.Visit the guide The tiled roof of St Stephen’s Cathedral and the rooftops of central ViennaAustriaULTIMATE ViennaThe State Opera and the Musikverein, Schönbrunn and Klimt, the coffee houses and Heurigen, and Railjets to Budapest every hour.Visit the guide St Mark's Church and its tiled roof on St Mark's Square, Zagreb's Upper TownCroatiaULTIMATE ZagrebCroatia’s elegant capital of cafés, museums and markets, and the gateway to Plitvice Lakes, Istria, Dubrovnik and the islands of the Adriatic.Visit the guide Zurich and the LimmatSwitzerlandULTIMATE ZurichThe Limmat and its two minsters, Chagall’s windows, the Bahnhofstrasse and Sprüngli, the lake, Baur au Lac and The Dolder Grand, and the city’s MICHELIN stars.Visit the guide
The Grand Palace reflected at dawnThailandULTIMATE BangkokThe Grand Palace and Wat Arun on the river, the grand hotels of Charoen Krung, MICHELIN stars from street food to tasting menus, rooftop bars and the Thai islands.Visit the guide Hong Kong Island and the harbour at night from Victoria PeakOur sister guideULTIMATE Hong KongThe harbour from the Peak, the Star Ferry, Cantonese dining rooms with MICHELIN stars, dim sum in the lanes of Central and the museums of West Kowloon.Visit the guide An aerial view of a small island ringed by reef in the MaldivesOur sister guideULTIMATE MaldivesUndersea restaurants and overwater bars, Hanifaru Bay’s mantas, the whale sharks of South Ari, private islands and the little capital, Malé.Visit the guide The Taj Mahal Palace and the Gateway of India from the harbourIndiaULTIMATE MumbaiThe Taj and the Gateway of India, Marine Drive’s Queen’s Necklace, three UNESCO sites, modern Indian restaurants and day trips to Elephanta and the Ghats.Visit the guide The Lujiazui skyline lit up at night across the Huangpu RiverChinaULTIMATE ShanghaiThe grand hotels of the Bund facing the towers of Pudong, every MICHELIN star, Yu Garden, the two Shanghai Museums and day trips to Suzhou and Hangzhou.Visit the guide The towers of the Central Business District lit up at night, reflected in Marina BayOur sister guideULTIMATE SingaporeMarina Bay and Raffles, three restaurants with three MICHELIN Stars, the hawker centres, and the Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Visit the guide A caparisoned elephant in the Esala Perahera procession, KandyOur sister guideULTIMATE Sri LankaColombo, the ramparts of Galle Fort, the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy, the tea country by train, Sigiriya and leopards in Yala.Visit the guide Longtail boats on West Railay beach beneath the limestone cliffsOur sister guideULTIMATE Thai IslandsWinter sun on two seas: Phuket, Krabi and Railay, Phi Phi and Koh Lanta on the Andaman, Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao in the Gulf.Visit the guide

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    Old Town·Castle

    Book a timed ticket for Edinburgh Castle and arrive before one o’clock: the One o’Clock Gun fires from the castle walls, and the Honours of Scotland wait inside.

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